Hazel Holloway
Honestly, I couldn’t find a Wispa or twirl anywhere in Grindelwald, just some chocolate called Lindt, and the Swizz have no imagination when it comes to houses—all the same—wooden chalets dotted throughout the Alps, with no enduring rustic, timeless charm. Wood stacked outside, ready for the long, cold winter days – (you know, the kind of days when you wear big comfy wool-lined boots and head out to a local Cafe to drink hot chocolate and watch the snow falling – boring), and their inviting balconies overflowing with pink petunias —so dull.
Are you like us in your mid-50s? One of us is 60. Do you enjoying finding ways to travel on a budget? Are you reasonably fit (I believe you are) but not as fit as you were in your 30s or 40s? Bending can be problematic, and one of you is menopausal, which brings a host of moans, groans, and sleepless nights.
Then, continue to read about our recent trip to Grindelwald, Switzerland, where everything is uphill and downhill feels like uphill. A sausage roll is £7, and dinner for two can be £80 without alcohol, but we managed to make it work with smart planning! It’s one of the most expensive places to stay in Europe – or is it?
Let’s get some of the expenses out of the way. We flew with BA from Manchester to Zurich in September, which is a cheaper time of year to go, stopping in London for a quick plane change, which cost about £200 each—not bad. We then travelled to Grindelwald by train. Everything was straightforward—finding the station from the airport and buying the tickets. Although I claim it was easy, we somehow got a same-day return instead of a six-day one. Between us, we were due to have eye tests plus sharing one pair of specs because someone managed to pack the other pair in the suitcase. Anyway, we made a quick stop at the ticket office, and they solved it immediately by giving us a return ticket for six days. The train was on time, which is relatively novel if you are British. We grabbed a sandwich from the restaurant, plugged in our phones, and sat and relaxed for 45 minutes until we reached Interlaken. I wouldn’t recommend buying food on the train; it’s expensive, but we didn’t have time to visit the train supermarket, so we tried to savour our £27 tuna baguette and coffee.
We transferred to the Oberland Bahn at Interlaken Ost, which took about 30 mins to arrive in Grindelwald. It’s a beautiful journey if you get a window seat. We didn’t, but I’m assured we passed lush green valleys and views of snow-peaked mountains; – I heard one woman say it was truly magical. I had to take her word for it, as all I could see was the back of my husband Kevin’s head as I leaned against the side of the train, holding onto our bags. Yes, it was a little crowded. And as we approached the village, the same woman cried out – it’s the Eiger!
The hotel was just a five-minute walk from the station, a perfect location for our adventures. Before we set off to the hotel, we invested at Grindeleald station in a four-day Swiss travel pass. The pass, has a treasure trove of travel benefits, allowing us unlimited travel on trains, buses, boats, and cable cars. It also granted us admission to over 500 museums (though we were too busy exploring the mountains to use this) and offered up to a 50% discount on other excursions, including a trip to Jungfraujoch. The Swiss travel pass costs £260 per person.
If you are 25 or under, there’s a 30% discount.
The hotel was perfectly placed; the views from the back of the hotel of the Eiger were truly magical, as the lady said on the train. We were at the front of the hotel, which saved us quite a lot money, but if I opened the window wide and Kevin held onto me as I leant out, we, too, had a view of the Eiger. Our view was of another hotel, but as I said, it helped save us some money, and as it turned out, most of our time spent in our room was spent lying down, recovering from the day’s steps. It was a budget hotel, but the room was warm and cosy; it had a great shower and continental breakfast was great with lots of choice. The eggs were especially good
We spent the next five days walking, walking and walking. On day one of walking, we were up early, ready for breakfast, and feeling energetic. Let’s do this, shouted Kevin. We even did a few stretches in prep for the first long trek we had planned. We took a cable car, which was walkable from the hotel up to Mannlichen, and walked to Mannlichen Gipfel to see all the fuss about the view. It was okay—we sat for ages waiting for the soft, white clouds to pass by. One got so close we had to push it away. We could hardly see the dense green forest and waterfalls below. I heard one woman say she was on top of the world, staring at the most magnificent view she had seen—a bit over the top. Another woman even said it was breathtaking and rambled on about how the mountains quieten one’s mind and how she felt calm and at peace – each to their own, I suppose. I asked Kevin what he thought, “bit tacky”, he said.
There wasn’t much else to do but walk, so we set off again. Through the mountains, past crystal clear, calming lakes reflecting everything around, through lush green forests and grassy valleys dotted with sheep and cows gently letting us know they were there creating a symphony of sound with their delightful bells – well, if I’m honest, making a right bloody racket. We had never heard anything like it! Still, it was a welcome change to the screeching seagulls that live on our roof in Knott-end-on-Sea. Eventually, we returned to our hotel room after six hours and more steps than usual in a week. The physical exhaustion was palpable, and frankly, we couldn’t move. We lay on the bed limp, staying in the same position until 5 am the following morning. Still, we saved about £80 on dinner, but we were starving, dehydrated and still limp, and breakfast didn’t start until 6 am.
The loo is the first thing I need in the morning before my body awakens fully. I’m sure a lot of my female friends understand this. Anyway, my calves were not in a hurry to move and when I stood up, everything from the waist down was sending different signals. My legs were screaming noooooooo. My bladder was screaming now! The only way I could walk to the bathroom was slowly and sideways. On the way back, Kevin was also walking sideways and slowly towards the loo. Talking of loos – take a look at this view from a loo.
We didnt get back in bed and instead stretched again. We needed to help each other this time. This was the day we had planned to take a gondola to Mannlichen (very high), then walk (a long way) to Kleine Scheidegg and then a train (for ages but most welcome) to Wengen for lunch. Somehow, we managed it. Lunch was a much cheaper and better version of the tuna baguette we got on the train. Everywhere seems to have a reasonably priced Co-op. We sat in a local park in the shade because, at times, the sun felt scorching, and we gazed at the view that surrounded us – yes, more snow-peaked mountains. Do you think the locals get sick of seeing them?
After lunch, we decided to take a cable car back to Mannlichen. Now, if you don’t like heights, stand in the middle, surround yourself with the people on board, and close your eyes. I did, and it made the journey much more pleasant. Some crazy folk paid a little extra to stand on top of the cable car surrounded by only air! One young couple took their young child up for the experience, but I’m not sure he was ready for it as he looked at me on the way up the steps and mouthed the words, “help”.
Once there, we made a spur-of-the-moment decision, fuelled by coffee and some of that awful Lindt chocolate I found in my rucksack, to hop on another cable car to Eigergletscher (bloody high up) and a leisurely cog train down to our hotel. All up, some 15k on foot. It was a good decision adding an extra layer of adventure to our day, even though our legs thought differently.
Once back at the hotel, we were determined not to use the lift, even though we were on the third floor. With the aid of the handrail, we dragged ourselves up the stairs, feeling the exhaustion in every step. We didn’t sit down when we reached our room. Instead, we quickly washed and changed, eager to go out for dinner. We did this, but by 8.00 pm, we were back at the hotel, ready to surrender to sleep by 8.10 pm.
We needed a rest day, so we took the town tour. We met at a local spot and were told it should take about an hour. Four hours later, having visited the local bakery, cheese shop, and coffee shop, we felt we knew a little more about Grindelwald and its history. It was surprisingly good value at just £9 per person which included samples of cheese, coffee and chocolate. Our guide told us that the fearsome north wall of Mount Eiger (3970m) towering above the valley is not the local’s favourite mountain, which has claimed many lives, but they prefer to call the lesser-known mountain their own Gross Fiescherhorn.
After the warm and welcoming tour of Grindelwald with its snug chalets, lush meadows and old-fashioned wine bars, we chose a local spot to have dinner, followed by a glass of my holiday favourite, red vermouth with ice. I didn’t look at the bill or Kevin’s face as he handed his card to the waiter I just took another sip of vermouth.
Rested, covered in deep heat and raring to go the next day, we hopped on the gondola in Grindlewald to a mountain called First. Then, we hiked for 50 minutes, slightly uphill, to Bachalpsee Lake. After stopping at the lake to take more boring pictures of the views, we trudged through the snow for three hours to catch a gondola down the mountain and into Grindlewald. It was sometimes rocky and slippy, but we did it – 15k all up. We rewarded ourselves with a coffee and more Lindt chocolate (it’s all they seem to sell, and I, for one, was getting used to it) before heading back to our hotel and collapsing again on the bed, too tired to eat.
The following day, we headed for Jungfraujoch (the top of Europe). Here is a helpful tip: don’t book your tickets in advance just in case the weather isn’t good. This could cost you a fortune to travel high up to see clouds. However, keep in mind that not booking in advance might result in limited availability, especially during peak seasons. The Swiss travel pass reduces the price by 50%. There is more to the place than a spectacular, boring views on a clear day. Regardless of the weather, which can change quickly, you can discover the history behind one of the most impressive rail engineering feats anywhere. Opened in August 1912, this railway ran from Kleine Scheidegg through the Eiger to the highest railway station in Europe – 3,454 meters above sea level: a train through a mountain. A man named Adolf Guyer-Zeller had the crazy idea. These days, he might have been told to calm down and take some pills, but he insisted on building it so tourists like us could reach one of the highest points in Europe. There is also an ice palace, a lookout terrace with views of the Sphinx observatory, a snow park that includes skiing, snowboarding, and tobogganing, and a zip wire. We decided to give all that a miss, it sounded tedious; instead, we decided to grab coffee and some chocolate from Lindt Chocolate Heaven Shop. We just had to try it again just in case it tasted any different, so high up. It was ok.
On our way back down, we took the cog railway, which took about an hour and a half. The ticket inspector approached us, so we got our train pass out, ready to show her.
“No, no, I don’t want your ticket. Here is some Swiss chocolate. Have you tried it?” I was taken aback by the unexpected gesture, and I just looked at Kevin and smiled while I put my hand out and told Kevin we would keep this for later just in case we were too tired to go out for dinner. Who was I kidding it was gone within ten minutes?
After our last breakfast in Grindelwald we went back up to First for one last look. From there, we walked back down to the village, which was approximately 13k, winding through lush green forests. The trees were tall enough so we could no longer see the mountains – a welcome break. But suddenly, something extraordinary happened. There was a delicious smell, and I couldn’t quite put my finger on it. Kevin pointed out a pile of freshly cut pine, I instantly remembered the scent of BnQ and suddenly felt at home, picturing myself walking behind Kevin as he chose the wood for his DIY projects.
That evening, we tried Switzerland’s staple—a cheese fondue. They dip bread and potatoes in melted cheese—oh well, when in Rome. I ordered a Hawaiian pizza for the side just in case we didn’t like it. Our ears had just stopped ringing from the clank clanking of the cow bells when three men and a lady arrived with accordions and a double base and played traditional folk tunes.
Kevin, with a hint of amusement, remarked, “This is a very long song”.
I replied, “It’s tune number six”.
Before bidding Switzerland farewell, we made a stop in Interlaken. We stumbled upon a local flea market and found two authentic cowbells, a unique souvenir of our trip. Much cheaper than the new shop bought ones. They now sit on our fireplace, a constant reminder of the Swiss Alps. We then found ourselves at the breathtaking Lake Brienz, a sight that left us in I must admit in awe. We savored one last tuna baguette by the serene lake before boarding the train back to Zurich. And to our surprise, I found some chocolate in my rucksack – a sweet ending to our Swiss adventure.
Grindelwald, what a place! If it were a contestant on Strictly, it would lift the glitter ball with its unique charm; if it were a contestant on Miss World in 1972, it would wear the winning crown and sash with its unparalleled beauty; if it were running in the Olympics, it would take the gold medal with its breathtaking landscapes, and of course, it would win every landscape photographic competition the world has to offer. But what truly sets Grindelwald apart is its people. They are not just warm and friendly; they are the epitome of hospitality. Lucky for me, they speak perfect English. And the cuisine including your fondue is a delightful journey for the taste buds, and I must admit, your chocolate is world-beating, too.
Where to stay
There are lots of options to keep the costs down in Grindlewald. Lots of air BNBs and hotels range from budget to we have more money than we need. We opted for Bed and Breakfast at Hotel Bel-Air Eden, just across the road and directly opposite the train station – a 3-minute walk. The bus station is about the same distance too. It’s a two star hotel with 30 beds and is centrally located. It is run by Peter and Dianela, who can’t do enough for you. The rooms are a little dated but have rustic charm and are very warm and cosy. We had a twin room budget, saving a bit of money and not having a view of the Eiger, but let’s face it, you could see it from everywhere else and at breakfast, which was terrific value for £70 per night in low season.
For the duration of your stay, you will also receive a guest card, which gives you free admission to the indoor swimming pool and other discounts. I think most hotels do this.
Check out the website https://www.hotel-belair.ch/en/home
Where to Eat
Go to the Co-op in the village. They have everything – Tuna baguettes, chocolate and Vermouth!
For a reasonably priced dinner, try Basecamp Restaurant. Great Peri Peri Chicken and vermouth!
https://www.basecamp.restaurant/en
Travel in Switzerland
We bought a 4 day pass (approx £260 per person) which included unlimited travel by train, bus and boat, unlimited travel on premium panorama trains (seat reservation fees and/or surcharges apply), unlimited use of public transport in more than 90 towns & cities.
Free admission to more than 500 museums. Mountain excursions included Rigi, Stanserhorn and Stoos
Discount of up to 50% on other mountain excursions
Please check the website as there are lots of options.
https://grindelwald.swiss/en/service/guest-information/overview-of-tickets.html
We bought our return train ticket from Zurich to Grindelwald (changing at Interlarken) at the station, which costs £294 for two people.
https://swisrails.com/en/train/zurich/grindelwa
Would we return – in a heartbeat.
Would we do anything differently – now we know about the Co-op we would stock up on snacks and drinks for the evening on day one.
