Kolkata is a kaleidoscope of colour, culture, chaos and charismatic charm.

“Hello, would you like to meet Jesus?” she asked, her eyes filled with a serene yet intense gaze, as if she could see right through us.

Chhath Puja

Let’s make a pact,” I suggested to my friend Lynn as we made our way to the River Brahmaputra Ghat in Kolkotta, eager to witness and capture the beauty of the devotees’ praying to the setting sun during Chhath Puja. We both agreed not to step into the water. Yet, twenty minutes later, we were waist-deep in the river, sharing a moment of unexpected joy. We laughed, turned, “Oh well”, we said and continued documenting the awe-inspiring spectacle in our own unique ways.
We were in the capable hands of Shivam Pandey, a seasoned photographer who has called Kolkatta home for 8 years. His photography is nothing short of breathtaking. He acts as a bridge between visitors with cameras and the locals, aiding with the language and, most importantly, guiding you to the lesser-known parts of Kolkatta. We discovered the city’s true essence with him, a side many tourists miss.

The rituals surrounding Chhath Puja are unique and distinct, supposedly harsher than those of other Hindu festivals. They involve strict fasting (without water), taking a dip in rivers or water bodies, standing in water and offering prayers at sunrise and sunset. The festival is celebrated between October and November, beginning with the end of the Diwali festival.

We joined women and their families on the final day as they went to the banks of rivers to make offerings (Arghya) to the rising sun. After the rituals, with hearts full of joy and gratitude, families shared the blessed ‘prasad,’ symbolising unity and abundance.

Would we be welcome? It seemed like such a private event, but Shivam assured us everything would be ok. I was not prepared for what happened next. We parked a few minutes from the event, and Shivam asked us to take off our shoes in respect. Luckily, I wore thick socks as the ground underneath was uneven and dirty. It didn’t matter. The atmosphere was electric, and I soon forgot about my feet; it was busy with people carrying food, drink and flowers on huge platters; some women who had their wishes fullfilled crawled on their bellies from home to the river bank. I have never seen such devotion. Rhymic drum beats, melodic chants, children running here and there, sweet fragrance and incense filled the air, colours vivid in every direction – peace and chaos reigned simultaneously. Then we arrived at the water’s edge and every inch of land before it was filled. Shivam let us loose but kept a close eye on us. Not because it wasn’t safe just because of the sheer crowds of people. Everyone wanted their picture taken; it was a time of celebration, thanks, and happiness. We felt a strong unity with the people around us, all part of this joyous occasion.
“Please take one of my mother in the water,” asked one proud son. This is how Lynn and I ended up in the water. It didn’t matter, as the joy of the whole event swept us away.
We had spent a good few hours there, and that evening, after dinner and an obligatory gin and tonic, sleep came very quickly. The exhaustion was a testament to the intensity of the experience, a day filled with sights, sounds, and emotions that left us both physically and emotionally spent.

City of Joy

“I’ve always known how extraordinary my country is, and nothing brings me more joy than sharing that sense of wonder with visitors.”

For the rest of the week, Shivam, a warm and friendly local guide, introduced us to the history, culture, colour, textures, markets, workers, noises and places unique to the Kolkata. If you are heading to Kolkata as a photographer, Shivam is the person you should connect with. He is a great guy to spend a couple of hours or even days with. https://www.kolkataphototours.com/about/

Mother House

“Hello, would you like to meet Jesus?” she asked, her eyes filled with a serene yet intense gaze, as if she could see right through us.

We nodded, surprised by the unexpected question.

“Good, follow me”, she beckoned and walked quickly ahead.

We had just arrived at the Mother House of the Missionaries of Charity, where Mother Teresa’s tomb and exhibition are displayed at the quiet convent. We followed the nun. “There, go inside and sit down”.

We walked in and sat down quietly, not knowing what to expect. Nuns arrived two at a time, their reverence palpable as they bowed at the altar and sat down. After a few minutes, everyone broke into a song, which was heavenly – sorry, I know, but it was—drowning out the crazy sounds of rush hour traffic just outside the window. We were witnessing the real presence of Christ in the Eucharist, which is the Christian doctrine that Jesus is present, not merely symbolically or metaphorically. Whether you are religious or not, it was a humbling experience, one we were told later that not everyone gets to see. We were baffled about why we were rushed in but honoured and grateful. Afterwards, we wandered around the museum, which was very informative, with many black-and-white pictures of Mother Teresa doing her work. You can also see her bedroom – a small room with a metal bed, a wooden desk, and a few notable items – a cross and a wreath of thorns on the wall. She peacefully passed away on that very bed on the 5th of September 1997.

“Spread love everywhere you go. Let no one ever come to you without leaving happier”  – Mother Teresa

Tired but full of joy

Exhausted at the end of each day, we returned to our hotel, The Elgin Fairway, sat on the verandah and sipped gin and tonics before dinner. I think I mentioned that earlier; well, you can never have enough when away. Housed in a 1783 building with a colonial-era vibe is a beautiful collage of the English imperial culture and modern India. We wanted for nothing: room service at our fingertips, hot piping water, delightful staff, and the best pillows money can buy. It’s a charming place, reflecting a gentle bygone age, and perfectly placed to discover Kolkotta with big yellow taxis waiting at the gates every morning.

Kolkata, the capital of the Indian state of West Bengal, is a treasure trove of art and culture. It is often referred to as the City of Joy.
Kolkata is home to prominent intellectuals and stately mansions of the famous, including Nobel Prize-winning poet Rabindranath Tagore. The city exudes warmth and hospitality, with areas dedicated to potters, books, flowers, and religious idols. A plethora of good restaurants complement these. But the people truly make the city a joy to be in.
My time in Kolkata was a whirlwind of experiences, and a week felt like a mere glimpse into the city’s rich tapestry. I will return to delve deeper into its culture and history. I mean, I’ve not even mentioned the temples!