Hazel Holloway“Hello, hello, come, come”, she said with her broad-beamed smile as she walked towards me. Her purple/pink curls bounced and shone in the sunlight. It was day five for me in Nerja, and while I had been enjoying the sun and the sea, I was craving a new adventure, a walk in the mountains. My first stop when I was looking for something different was Airbnb experiences – this is how I found Simpa.
II should have known then that combining the words “mountain”, “walk”, and “easy” was pushing the truth a little, but the aspiring feeling of reward I envisioned made me overlook this fact.
Struggling at first, I wondered if I was in over my head, but Simpa’s spiritual grounding and wisdom helped me understand why I had decided to do this. “The route up the mountain is always possible; it will wait for you,” she said as I stopped again to take a puff on my inhaler. Noticing, Simpa talked of a recipe she believed helped alleviate her relative’s ailments, which involved honey and many onions. I still have to try it. Simpa’s stories continued as we walked, and her local knowledge of shrubs and small, fragile flowers clinging to rocks and herbs was impressive. When I finally reached the top, I was overcome with a feeling of achievement and fulfilment that I had decided to leave the beaten track. The beauty of nature that surrounded me, the vast expanse of the mountains and the delicate flowers, made me feel deeply connected to the world around me.
The soft warm late-afternoon sun filled the sky, settling over the city of Nerja and the Mediterranean sea below like patches of pink candy floss dotted here and there and the picturesque mountain village of Frigiliana behind nestled in the hills looked marvellous, two breathtaking rewards for all we had achieved.
As I gazed at the view, Simpa laid out a most welcome picnic. Figs, nuts, hummus, and pieces of bread, all products she had grown or made herself. This personal touch made the meal more than just food, it was a connection to her and her life. It was the second most gratifying meal I have ever had, a close second to the piles of buttered toast and tea I devoured after giving birth to my first child.
We sat together, chatting, nibbling, and gazing at the glorious views. I asked Simpa about the small white altar at the top of the mountain. She delighted in telling me the story – In 1643, Francisco de Pinto built this shrine, a significant piece of history that, according to legend, starts just off the coast of Nerja. Under his command, three ships left the Italian city of Verona for Cadiz. A terrible storm hit the boat, and it sank; desperate Saint Francis of Pinto asked God for help. He promised God that if everyone survived, he would build a shrine on the highest mountain he could see. After the storm had passed, he followed through on his prayer and the position that he chose for his sacred place, unbeknownst to me, the spot I had just trekked to. Today, it is known as “Cruz de Pinto”.
Once my hunger was satiated and the chat had quietened, Simpa pointed down, and down we went. I stopped to take pictures of the local fauna. I noticed birds, small reptiles, and butterflies abound on the descent. More stories were recalled – about meeting her husband on a trek and hiking for days in only flip-flops. But you should take the hike and listen for yourself. The trek was a three-hour journey through the picturesque landscapes of Nerja, with frequent stops to admire the local flora and fauna. Nerja is a beautiful place to sit by the sea and relax, but it is also full of untapped gems, and I can’t wait to go back and find more.
Local Experience is an ecotourism company offering trekking tours throughout Nerja, Southern Spain. I decided to undertake a three-hour trek after reading the phrase Simpa (the owner) used on her website, “We will walk a lot, but it is straightforward and rewarding for beginners.” Sold! To the slightly overweight, middle-aged woman with mild asthma at £23 per person, a bargain at that. I booked online and within minutes received a message back from Simpa where, later that day, she picked me up from a local landmark.
You can book online at “Local Experience” here.
Best Tips
On this particular trek with Local Experience you are very well looked after but don’t’ be afraid to ask for a break and wear good socks and comfortable boots or trainers.
How to get there:
Direct flights to and from Malaga are daily from most airports in the UK.
Take the A line bus from the airport to Malaga bus station. It takes 25 minutes and cost €3.00.
Find the ALSA pay cubicles 4-6 to purchase your ticket. It costs around €6.45 one way. The bus departs from stand 38 and takes approximately/1 hour to reach Nerja.
There is an airport bus in the summer months direct to Nerja which runs once at day at 11.45 am.
You can book tickets in advance at ALSA
A taxi direct to Nerja from the airport is approximately €80.00.
